WORDS TO BUILD BY

You can have your choice of 2 but RARELY all 3.

Cheap+Reliable = Not Fast

Fast+Cheap = Not Reliable

Fast+Reliable = Not Cheap

I took out my entire rear drivetrain/suspension.

Will have pics soon.

So Scared

So when Jay @ JDMego deleted all the entries from his blog I almost lost it.

I went straight over to his online store and started buyin up goodies.

I thought they were gonna be gone forever.

When the order came, to my surprise he threw some extra goodies in.

:)

Then come to find out, he's back on the net.

Check out his blog: JDMego

Some New Parts

I went with this biscuit camber plate cause I didn't want to cut up my front towers.

This shit (and other shit like it) is actually cheap if you know the Nissan part#. 

You just gotta work for it.

From MSA. The Zparts monopoly.

It's a generic mirror, but MSA had the best price

Swap meet score.

Carbon fiber. Not sure if I'm going to run these...

Rust-Proofing & Insulation

For the new followers out there check out the entries from Feb and March

I had to replace the floors due to massive rust.

When I was done, this was the result:

I used spray on bedliner to protect the new sheetmetal after priming it.

This stuff:

It looked good at first, but deteriorated quickly.

I do not recommend it.

After a large amount of research I decided on this:

Chassis Saver

Here's an advertisement:

You can either use a spray gun or a brush to apply the coating.

I used a brush because I'm lazy and I didn't want overspray all over my paint.

Anyways here is what it looks like wet:

When it dries (takes at keast 24hrs) it will be satin black.

Now that that's done it's time to put in some insulation.

This is going to be a car that I want to enjoy on the street, not some crazy track/autocross car.

With that said, for me to be able to enjoy it, I need to be able to at least hear myself think.

However, squeaks & rattles in a car like this are assumed.

My goal is to minimize those things.

Do your research and you'll find out that Peel&Seal is the same shit as the original Dynamat.

(Peel&Seal is available in the roofing section @ the hardware store)

You can go crazy and get the super $$$ stuff, but like I said, I just want to hear myself think.

If that's you goal too, do yourself a favor and save some money.

In the package:

  

Your gonna need a heat gun, some kind of roller, and a pair of scissors.

A wallpaper roller works well.

I stole the one below from a stack of crap @ the parents house.

There are 2 secrets to making this stuff last. 

#1:Making sure the mounting surface is clean.

#2:Heating up the Peal&Seal.

Apply heat via the heat gun to the mounting surface to warm it up.

Don't let it get too hot, just warm.

Do the same to the Peal&Seal. Again not too hot.

Apply the same way you would a piece of tape pushing the Peal&Seal into crevices as you go along.

Once you have applied it heat it up again. Again not too hot, just so that its warm to the touch.

Now use the roller to firmly bond it to the mating surface.

These are the results

Sound insulation is mucho improvo.

For spots with extra resonance, layer the material until you are satisfied.

Keep it Old School

This is a bit strange.

I'm conflicted

I should be happy the aftermarket is starting to look at the older Japanese imports.

And I'm all for technology upgrades.

Not to mention low, aggressive cars.

But I'm seriously irked by the TE37V. Something about it just pisses me off.

Perhaps it's what it represents. The recent popularization of the "old school."

I just need to get over it and embrace all the cool new people/products attracted to this scene