Monday, March 24, 2014

Strappin On a Tank

A common problem with S30 Z's is a faulty gas gauge
Prior to restoration my Z was no exception
I bought a new fuel sending unit from the dealer in an attempt to remedy the bad readings
Installed the new sending unit along with a new O-ring (a must) and thought all was well

Nope

The gauge read full ALL THE TIME
Oh well, I tried

After some research I determined everything was working properly
Turns out the fuel tank needs to be insulated from the straps that hold it to the body
And there was the root of my problem
When i remounted my fuel tank mid restoration the straps were directly in contact with the tank
therefore grounding out the fuel sender

While I had the car up in the air trying to source a fuel leak I would fix the tank insulation problem
Once I fixed the leak, a loose clamp, I moved on to the tank

Step 1: put the rear of the car on jack stands

Step 2: jack the jack so it supports the fuel tank


Step 3: Inspect your badass fuel pump and associated fittings (wiring could use some work)


Step 4: loosen the support straps


Step 5: Find a sheet of urethane. 
I got a sheet on ebay for an insanely cheap price as it was scrap

Step 6: cut urethane in to strips just a bit wider than the straps



Step 7: insert strips of urethane in between the straps and the tank


Step 8: tighten straps

Step 9: Lower jack and remove car from jack stands

Step 10: Viola it works

Sunday, January 19, 2014

Updated info on Subie R180 install

Some new info regarding previous post
be sure to torque the input flange bolt to 136lbs/ft
This is critical.

Don't ask me how I know.

Some more info stolen from hybridz.org

Subaru Part #s that might be helpful to folks using the STi R180s:
Genuine Subaru STi LSD oil PN K0305Y0900 ($18-25 a liter!) Perrin finned cover #PSP-SUS-510 will incr capacity to 1.3qts.
Others use Motul 90PA or Motul 300 if a Torsen unit.
R180 rear cover gasket PN 38353AA050 (about $10)
R180 STi stub snap ring PN 805326000 (lives inside diff) (about $2.50 ea)
R180 rear cover plastic breather vent PN 38354AA002 (about $4)
R180 STi diff rubber side seal PN 806732030 or 806732200 (about $6 ea)
You can also tap the rear cover vent hole 1/4NPT for a -6 AN fitting if you want to run a hose to a vent or a catch can.

Torque values for the STi R180s:
Driveshaft Pinion flange nut torque spec is 134 lb-ft. This preserves pinion bearing pre-load.Diff side plate bolt torque spec is 7.6 lb-ft.
Rear cover bolt torque spec is 32 lb-ft (22 lb-ft for Non-STi and Perrin recs this tq # with their finned covers).
Fill/drain plug torque spec is 36 lb-ft (Use the $30 13mm KTC Socket to avoid rounding out these plugs: http://ultimatetoolc...drainplugs.aspx).
Rear diff mounting bolts torque spec is 52 lb-ft. (Ditch the studs & replace w/ 12x1.75 gr 10.9 bolts to make R&R easier)

A 26-page pdf of the Subaru Manual for WRX R160 & STi R180 diffs can be found here:
http://ken-gilbert.c...ifferential.pdf

Although possibly NLA at times, these part #s might be useful:
Nissan halfshaft bolts PN 39628-E4100
Nissan halfshaft nuts PN 39627-N3000
Nissan halfshaft washers PN 08915-2401A
Nissan halfshaft bolts PN 38228-21000 (Thanks Dtsnlvrs!)
(Torque to 58 lb-ft)

Friday, January 3, 2014

Subie R180 Install

Happy New Year

I picked up the parts to do a STI R180 swap a looong time ago
With some time off of work, now was the time do the swap

The first step is to remove the existing diff
Pics of this are pretty boring so I didnt take any
Below is the best way to remove the diff

"1. Remove the rear wheels and tires and place under the car. (I DIDN'T DO THIS)
2. Unbolt driveshaft (4 bolts) and hang out of the way.
3. Unbolt halfshafts (CLOSEST TO DIFF) (8 nuts) and hang out of the way.
4. Unbolt front diff crossmember (4 bolts) and let diff hang off moustache bar (don't worry about the rear LCAs).
5. Put a jack or your chest under the diff.
6. Unbolt the diff from the moustache bar (2 nuts).
7. Slide diff forward onto the jack or your chest."

There is quite a bit of wrangling to be done to get the diff out.
Do yourself a favor and use the jack if it is your 1st time doing this.
Dont try to be he-man and muscle it.
I had to unbolt my exhaust to get some more room to remove.
But the above directions are basic enough to get you where you need to be.

Future home of the new diff


OK here is what you need to do to swap over.

First you need an WRX STI R180 with the Limited Slip type and gear ratio of your choice
2007 STI 3.54 LSD:


Next you need Beta Motorsports Half Shaft adapters.


Wolfcreek Racing currently sells them.

That's it

Start by removing the old diff and salvage the studs from the old half shafts
I hammered mine out with a plastic mallet.
Do not use a steel mallet as you will damage the studs 

Next install the studs you just salvaged into the new Beta Motorsports half shafts
Again use a plastic mallet to "press" them in


Next step is to swap the input flange from your old diff to the new subie diff
The easiest way to do this is with an impact gun and the appropriate socket
Use the impact gun to remove the input shaft bolts and pull the flanges off the diffs



My old datsun flange slipped right off.

The subie flange required some very light persuasion to be removed.

 Put the datsun flange on the subie diff.
Use the impact gun to tighten the bolt.
BE SURE TO TIGHTEN BOLT TO 136 LBS/FT
That's it. Flanges swapped.

Now install ONE of the half shafts
The "subie" half shafts are unlike the datsuns in that they snap in rather than bolt in
Simply hit the shaft with plastic mallet and it will pop in to place

Now fill the diff with fluid through the hole for the other half shaft
Everything I could find says the diff holds 1 liter (1000ml or 1.1 quarts) of fluid
There is a lot of opinions on what diff oil to use for the subie LSDs.
Do your own research and use what you think will work best.
Here's what I decided on:


Now that the diff is full of fluid install the other half shaft.
While I had the diff out I replaced the front crossmember bushing
Easy peasy




Now we are ready to reinstall
If you can, cut a peice of wood to support both ends of the diff on the jack

Position it in place and slide the bolts on the diff cover into the mustache bar and secure


The rest is simply bolting up everything you had previously unbolted.

UPDATE 1: 
The diff I got on ebay 2 years ago is junk.
It howls on deceleration like a banshee.
From what I've read the pinion bearings are shot and the thing could grenade at any second
Awesome

Wednesday, August 14, 2013

New Speedo - Install Time

Got a New GPS Speedometer from Speedhut
With the Right Options Picked, it Looks Almost Stock
Here's How I Fit it in the Stock Pod

First Step Remove The Column Cover


Next Pull the Dash Cover (If You Have One)

The Speedo is Held in by Two Wing Nuts
Almost Impossible to Get Off by Hand
Easy Removal is Done Via a 3/4" Socket



Boom


With the Dash Cap Out of the Way
And
The Two Wing Nuts Removed the Speedo Slides Out The Front of the Dash


Disconnect the:
Gauge Lights
Trip Reset Cable
Speedo Cable
& Remove Speedo

Now Get Ready To Disassemble the Speedo

Remove the Four Screws Holding the Gauge Shroud to the Gauge Body


Compare Gauges
Old vs New
Looks Pretty Similar
 

Carefully Remove the Guts of the Gauge
Retain the Gauge Body
Insert New Gauge into Old Gauge Body
Slide New Wires Through the Rear of the Gauge
Use Old Gauge Shroud to Stabilize New Gauge in Gauge Body





 Wire Up Per Instructions
Place GPS Antenna in Your Ideal Location
I Put It on the Metal Dash Valance w/the Defrost Vents

Finished Product
Same Install Method for Install of Tach

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Just Registered



See you there!