PICS - 2012

Just some personal pics from the last year

 

Drillin Studs...Manifold Studs

So here' my plan in the simplest of terms:

Take OG L24 as-is

Clean it up

Swap over OG carbed draw-thru turbo setup

Embrace the old school tech (soul) of the setup

Anyways

Not much is new

Trying to prep the OG L24 for turbo duty

Removed all manifolds, cooling junk, and other bits

Broke a stud off in the head

Not Surprised

Only managed to break 1

Surprsised

Better than I expected

Time to drill it out

Original Stud thread is M8 x 1.25

Gonna upsize to M10 x 1.5

Use an 11/32 Drill bit to set yourself up to tap M10 x1.5

Drill a pilot hole with a smaller bit

Take note of how far you needs to drill by inserting the bit into an open stud hole

Measure how far it goes in and be sure to not exceed that depth with the pilot bit

Once that's complete move on to the 11/32 bit

Understand I'm doing this all in my garage and I'm lazy

If you want this done right have a pro do it

With that said, I "eyeballed" the level and direction of the drill

Use a cutting fluid while drilling

WD40 or most any aerosol oil will work if you're in a pinch 

I have no idea where my M10x1.5 tap is so I'll cover that later

Added a Store

Got back in to graphic design

Made some stickers

Check em out in the store

Link to the right!

Good Things

So I have the original engine laying in the garage.

Time to build it up

Only when time & $$$ allow

Keepin it OG and period correct when I can

Should be fun

Problem solved? Kinda

This may get confusing. 

Tis the nature of the DCOE

So I had a lean pop at the transition between the idle jets and main jets

Anytime you'd power on the throttle, VS roll on the throttle, the carbs would backfire

After a bit of research I decided a change in the accelerator check valve was needed

The accelerator pump itself can be altered to tune the lean spot out... 

...but a former Weber employee disapproved

You only need one check valve per carb

They are easy to take out, but the location makes them a pain to install

See item 12

Old accelerator pump check valves were 55s (.55mm bypass hole)

Changed to 35s (.35mm bypass hole)

Lean pop during transition pretty much disappears

Middle carb is still popping a little tiny bit

I think I know why

Much improved and good enough for now

PART 2

So the Z runs pig rich at idle, 500rpm

Tried messing with the fuel pressure

No luck

Went from 60F9 to 55F9 on the idle jets

No luck

Messed with idle speed

No luck

What was the next logical step?

Even smaller idle jets

Package from Italia

Ohhh shiny idle jets

50F9

Scared him

New Jets in the stack

So started it up and still runs pig rich

DAMN!

Switched back to 55F9s

I've realized due to my high duration cam the engine does not pull enough vacuum @ idle

Therefore the fuel has trouble atomizing and burning completely

Out the exhaust it goes

I'm not sure if there is anything I personally can do about it

I may have to take a trip back out to Rebello to see if they can get it sorted

On a side note with the smaller jets the lean pop was horrible on transition

maybe I will go to 0s (no bypass hole) on the accelerator pump check valve

This will basically not allow any fuel to be put back in the float bowl during the transitional period

That should eliminate the lean pop completely

If not I've got bigger problems

Faux Emblem

Faux Emblem

Clean Canvas

Applied

Distant View

What do you think?

5 out of 8

Reference original post dated 12/20/11
inzane240.blogspot.com/2011/12/ive-pretty-much-had-entire-summerfall.html

Action: Clutch slips at high RPMs (above 5000)

Cause: Glazed clutch, leaking rear main seal, or slightly engaged pressure plate.

Fix: New clutch, replace seal, or find different length clutch collar

FIXED – New SPEC stage 2 clutch, clutch collar, and bearing

Action: Smokes like a chimney and getting worse.

Cause: Oily smoke so its gotta be the valve stem seals.

Fix: New seals, might as well port head while I’m at it.

FIXED – New engine

Action: Slight tire rubbing in rear

Cause: Tires are too badass

Fix. Rolled fenders but still no positive result. Get out cut off wheel/grinder.

FIXED – Inner fender ground down and hammered until tire cleared

Action: Passenger seat too far forward in interior compartment

Cause: Battery relocation to behind passenger seat prevents rearward movement.

Fix: Get a smaller/shorter battery to allow rearward seat movement.

FIXED – New sealed/smaller battery – mounted horizontally

Action: Speedo don’t work

Cause: Speedo gear in trans installed incorrectly

Fix. Git R Done

Action: Car does not return to zero after left turns

Cause: Noticed recently that front wheels are different offsets.

Minimal enough offset not to notice, but large enough offset to adversely affect handling.

Fix: Get out matching spares and pair them up correctly.

Action: Shock tower covers look like shit

Cause: Product quality sucks & I suck

Fix: Professional install?

Action: Noisy fuel pump

Cause: No idea

Fix: Different brand pump

PARTIALLY FIXED – Insulated pump with rubber PVC repair sleeve as well as insulated rubber foam. Much better.

Seat Is In

Got the seat in

Modified the stock seat rails to fit

Fixed the crooked exhaust

now it rubs the rear valance

it never ends

Badass

Cheap Insurance

I can't tell if these things are badass or hokey

Regardless they are cheap insurance for the engine

I think I like them

I'm Free Flowin

Time to fix my jacked up exhaust

Crappy Crush bend

Cut it out!

Look at that POS

Time to copy with mandrel bend

Welding Required

Cut and tacked

Welded up

Bam! Done!

Muffler is a bit crooked now & rubs rear valance

Oops

I'll have to fix that somehow

New Toys

I got plans for this seat. 

Stupid Blogger auto-rotated image & I don't know how to fix

 Subaru R180 27 spline to datsun 240z halfshaft adapters

 2006 STI 3.54 R180 LSD

Change the input flange and it's a direct bolt in

as long as you have the Beta Motorsports half shaft adapters

 

 Adapters & LSD mated up

Up close and personal

Seller claimed that LSD is 3.9

 But I know for a fact 2006 STIs came with a 3.54 rear r180

The ratio of the center diff in the STI theoretically made the rear diff a 3.9

Without the center diff, the r180 is a 3.54

I currently have a 4.11 open r180 out of a L20 Fairlady Z 2+2

With the new engine, I'm in and out of the power band in no time

Im hoping this STI r180 with the lower ratio will keep me in the power longer

&

speed me up in the long run

Regardless the LSD will be a vast improvement