Satisfaction

Fresh from the camera.

TIPs

Finally tacked on the tips.

Stacked Trumpets.

And the front needs spacers.

LIKE THE BLOG ON FACEBOOK------>

It's neat.

Alright...

So here is a pic of the final product, minus the brake conversion:

You can spy the Fairlady 2+2 R180.

It comes in the 4.11 ratio.

Also shown are the ARP studs. Had to replace the stockers. Way too short.

A Clear shot of the coilovers:

I added 10" QA1 Springs. 

225# in the rear

Included springs were some crazy rate and 8".

Even lower than the last post:

Cool.

At the request of my two favorite fans here are the wheel specs:

Front:

15x7.5 Epsilons/Southern Ways

10mm offset

195/55/15

Rear:

15x9.5 Epsilons/Southern Ways

0 offset

225/50/15

On the Ground

Still need to tweak, but I'm stoked.

Better late than never

Oh ya I forgot to tell you.

Took the rear suspension out.

Trying to get it out with the exhaust in made it a bitch.

If the exhaust wasnt there it would have been pretty easy.

Strut/Spring/Control Arm/Drum Brakes:

Stock R180:

I think 3.34 ratio???

You can see what I did to the strute tube.
I got rid of that shit.
Just like the front, I pressed on an adapter.
The adapter will allow me to use certain brands of s13 coilover

Looking down the barrel of the tube:

Where the Tube meets the hub. Weld here:

Welding:

Moved on to the camber plates:

My 120V welder kept tripping the breaker in the garage.

You can see where I was in the zone and then the breaker tripped.

Then the wife got home from work so no more play time.

REFRESHING

Rear Camber Plates

I should have done this before I had the car painted.

But that would be the logical thing to do.

Tools of the trade:

Grinder w/cutoff wheel & Sawzill

The Result:

A gapping hole.

Now test fit:

Tomorrow Welding.

Stay Tuned

WORDS TO BUILD BY

You can have your choice of 2 but RARELY all 3.

Cheap+Reliable = Not Fast

Fast+Cheap = Not Reliable

Fast+Reliable = Not Cheap

I took out my entire rear drivetrain/suspension.

Will have pics soon.

So Scared

So when Jay @ JDMego deleted all the entries from his blog I almost lost it.

I went straight over to his online store and started buyin up goodies.

I thought they were gonna be gone forever.

When the order came, to my surprise he threw some extra goodies in.

:)

Then come to find out, he's back on the net.

Check out his blog: JDMego

Some New Parts

I went with this biscuit camber plate cause I didn't want to cut up my front towers.

This shit (and other shit like it) is actually cheap if you know the Nissan part#. 

You just gotta work for it.

From MSA. The Zparts monopoly.

It's a generic mirror, but MSA had the best price

Swap meet score.

Carbon fiber. Not sure if I'm going to run these...

Rust-Proofing & Insulation

For the new followers out there check out the entries from Feb and March

I had to replace the floors due to massive rust.

When I was done, this was the result:

I used spray on bedliner to protect the new sheetmetal after priming it.

This stuff:

It looked good at first, but deteriorated quickly.

I do not recommend it.

After a large amount of research I decided on this:

Chassis Saver

Here's an advertisement:

You can either use a spray gun or a brush to apply the coating.

I used a brush because I'm lazy and I didn't want overspray all over my paint.

Anyways here is what it looks like wet:

When it dries (takes at keast 24hrs) it will be satin black.

Now that that's done it's time to put in some insulation.

This is going to be a car that I want to enjoy on the street, not some crazy track/autocross car.

With that said, for me to be able to enjoy it, I need to be able to at least hear myself think.

However, squeaks & rattles in a car like this are assumed.

My goal is to minimize those things.

Do your research and you'll find out that Peel&Seal is the same shit as the original Dynamat.

(Peel&Seal is available in the roofing section @ the hardware store)

You can go crazy and get the super $$$ stuff, but like I said, I just want to hear myself think.

If that's you goal too, do yourself a favor and save some money.

In the package:

  

Your gonna need a heat gun, some kind of roller, and a pair of scissors.

A wallpaper roller works well.

I stole the one below from a stack of crap @ the parents house.

There are 2 secrets to making this stuff last. 

#1:Making sure the mounting surface is clean.

#2:Heating up the Peal&Seal.

Apply heat via the heat gun to the mounting surface to warm it up.

Don't let it get too hot, just warm.

Do the same to the Peal&Seal. Again not too hot.

Apply the same way you would a piece of tape pushing the Peal&Seal into crevices as you go along.

Once you have applied it heat it up again. Again not too hot, just so that its warm to the touch.

Now use the roller to firmly bond it to the mating surface.

These are the results

Sound insulation is mucho improvo.

For spots with extra resonance, layer the material until you are satisfied.

Keep it Old School

This is a bit strange.

I'm conflicted

I should be happy the aftermarket is starting to look at the older Japanese imports.

And I'm all for technology upgrades.

Not to mention low, aggressive cars.

But I'm seriously irked by the TE37V. Something about it just pisses me off.

Perhaps it's what it represents. The recent popularization of the "old school."

I just need to get over it and embrace all the cool new people/products attracted to this scene