New Speedo - Install Time

Got a New GPS Speedometer from Speedhut

With the Right Options Picked, it Looks Almost Stock

Here's How I Fit it in the Stock Pod

First Step Remove The Column Cover

Next Pull the Dash Cover (If You Have One)

The Speedo is Held in by Two Wing Nuts

Almost Impossible to Get Off by Hand

Easy Removal is Done Via a 3/4" Socket

Boom

With the Dash Cap Out of the Way

And

The Two Wing Nuts Removed the Speedo Slides Out The Front of the Dash

Disconnect the:

Gauge Lights

Trip Reset Cable

Speedo Cable
& Remove Speedo

Now Get Ready To Disassemble the Speedo

Remove the Four Screws Holding the Gauge Shroud to the Gauge Body

Compare Gauges

Old vs New
Looks Pretty Similar
 

Carefully Remove the Guts of the Gauge

Retain the Gauge Body

Insert New Gauge into Old Gauge Body

Slide New Wires Through the Rear of the Gauge

Use Old Gauge Shroud to Stabilize New Gauge in Gauge Body

 Wire Up Per Instructions

Place GPS Antenna in Your Ideal Location

I Put It on the Metal Dash Valance w/the Defrost Vents

Finished Product

Same Install Method for Install of Tach

Just Registered

See you there!

Cable Conversion

OK

So I kind of rushed through this mod

So not a lot of in progress pics

I cannot state how necessary this mod is for tripple carbs

I'd imagine it is worthwhile for the OG SUs

I retained the original linkage to be more period correct

I did not want to alter the character of the car

For some reason I got a bug up my ass and got parts to convert to a throttle cable

There's not a lot of documentation out there on how to do this

I was left to my own

My main inspiration was brake cable setup on my BMX bike

After studying how it works for an hour I started the project.

Step 1: Parts

Weber Linkage Arm

 Throttle outer cable adjustable lock nut x2

Kink BMX Brake Cable 

Lokar S-1034 Carb End Assembly

The above product bolts on to the weber linkage arm

the end of the brake cable wire inserts into the tip

the tip moves freely in the direction of the pulling force

In the series of pictures below, you can see how it works.

Gravity, in this case, is the pulling force.

First step is to remove the gas pedal

Wish I took more pictures of this...

I drilled out the ball on the stock pedal arm

I fabbed a new lever end to accept the brake cable end

Crappy picture, but here is what it looks like

Once that is done you can come up with a fire wall mount for the cable sleeve end

I removed the grommet for the original linkage

Utilized the cable adjuster nut purchased from Pierce

Put a big ass washer with rtv on the engine bay side of the firewall to clean it up

Now you need to make a cable mount for the other side of the brake cable

Make sure its thick gauge steel

My first bracket was too thin and bent

I mounted my bracket using the bottom two velocity stack mounting studs

It is under the carb so as not to be too visible

This is the best pic I have at the moment

 You want to maintain as linear of a path with the Lokar part

So as not to cause the wire to rub and prematurely wear

Here you can see how I mounted the linkage arm

 I also added a return spring to help the carbs return to ZERO

All done and hardly noticable

Driving is much improved and I'd say more enjoyable

Not my best write-up due to my hastiness

If you need specific pics or information feel free to comment & I will follow up

Breath Easy - Part 2

So This Took Me Forever.

After Some Screw Ups and Body Filler Failure This Was The Result

It took me about 3 weeks of sanding, priming, bondo-ing, puttying, etc

But it was finally perfect

Time to mix up some paint!

Step 1: Clean HPLV gun cause you were too lazy to clean it last time

Makes it twices as hard btw cause everything gets crusty

Nothing Acetone won't fix

Disassemble the gun and clean everything

Then reassemble and spray acetone through it just to make sure its super clean

Step 2: Wipe down part to be painted with Mineral Spirits.

BOOM. Big Ass Can

Next get out your paint

For small parts I use a single stage paint

Its super easy to mix, durable and usually only requires a single paint session

You can hardly tell between a single stage paint job and a base/clear with flatter colors

So you have your reducer, hardener, and the actual paint

I use OMNI by PPG cause it is cheap, easy to use, and it works

Heres the mixing ratio:

4 parts paint

1 part hardener

2 parts reducer

start mixing

I would not recommend using a solo red cup as a mixing container

20 minutes later the paint ate through the cup spilling all over the place

No Bueno

A spray paint lid as a measuring tool is not a good idea either

But I gotsta use what I gots

Anyways, I started painting but wasnt patient enough

Your supposed to wait 10 minutes between coats

I waited 5 seconds

Anyways I ended up with some runs which also led the paint away from the edges

I'm usually pretty good with painting so I was frustrated with myself...

Especially since I spent so much time with the prep work

You can see the run in the pic above

Pretty bad

I was able to sand it out with 1500 grit sand paper

But like i said the edges are very thin

I may sand it down with 600 grit and spray again

Here's a rough idea of what it looks like on the car

It needs some adjustments and possibly a repaint, but I like it so far

Mix N Match

15x7 Epsilons on front & 14x9 Wats on rear

Breath Easy

Gettin Crazy with an inspection lid

One of the bigger problems with S30Z is Aerodynamics

This includes the area under the hood

Basically Air gets trapped in the engine bay

The explanations get real technical. Just trust me

That Air gets real hot, given its proximity to the engine creating a ton of problems

This is why Nissan came out with an optional hood "scoop" for S30s

And hood vents for the 78 S30s

Not wanting to cut a giant hole in the beautiful line of the Z hood

I decided upon butchering the inspection lid to get the air to travel a bit easier out of the engine bay

Step 1: Draw up a plan

Step 2: Cut that sh!t

Step 3: Drink High Life

Step 4:Start to Fab

Step 5: Make Corner Templates

Step 6: Cut Corners

Step 7: Weld it all together

Step 8: Done with Fabrication

Next will be body work and paint!