inZane240

Here's a breakdown

2012-03-04T09:07:00.000-08:00

This list is constantly changing.

240z Modifications

· Suspension

o Front:

§ EMUSA s13 adjustable coilovers/shock body

§ QA1 10” Springs: 200lbs

§ Suspension Techniques 1” SwayBar

§ Moog Ball joints

§ Moog Tie-Rods

§ TechnoToyTuning Adjustable TC Rods

§ EnergySuspension Poly Urethane Steering rack bushings

§ EnergySuspension Solid Steering Bushing

§ TechnoToyTuning Strut Brace

§ KOYO Wheel Bearings

§ Mobil1 Synthetic Brake Grease

§ ARP wheel studs

o Rear

§ EMUSA s13 adjustable coilovers/shock body

§ QA1 10” Springs: 215lbs

§ Suspension Techniques ¾” SwayBar

§ Adjustable Camber Plates

· Brakes

o OEM New Brake Master Cylinder

o Castrol DOT3 Fluid

o Stainless Braided Brake Lines

o Front

§ Remanufactured Calipers

§ HAWK Brake Pads

§ PowerSlot Brake Rotors

o Rear

§ 240sx rear brake conversion

§ 300zx rotors

· Drivetrain

o Nissan Fairlady 2+2 R180 4.11

o 1979 280zx 5-Speed Transmission

o Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel

o SPEC Stage2 280zx Turbo Clutch/Pressure Plate

o Brass Shifter Bushings

o OEM New Clutch Master Cylinder

o OEM New Clutch Slave Cylinder

o Stainless Braided Clutch Line

o Ron Tyler Diff Mount

· Fuel System

o Carter Fuel Pump

o Earls Teflon-Lined Steel Braided Fuel Lines

o AN Fittings-No barbed fittings

o (3) 40DCOE18 Weber Carburetors – Italian Made

o Cannon Intake Manifold

o Vapor Tank Elimination

o New Fuel Level Sender

· Electrical

o 280zx Alternator

o External Voltage Regulator elimination

o Wire Tuck

o StreetFire Ignition (Made by MSD)

o CraneCams Ignition Coil

o MSA Blade-type fuse box

o 280zx distributor

o Taylor spark plug wires

o Wiper Motor Elimination

o Washer Motor Elimination

o LED Bulb Conversion (interior & exterior)

o Hella Euro H4 Headlight Housings

· Body

o Re-Painted original 112 Yellow

o Shaved Marker Lights

o Shaved Wipers

o Shaved Hatch Emblems

o Fiberglass Bumpers Painted 1974 BMW Anthracite

o Rear Valance Painted 1974 BMW Anthracite

o MSA Type2 Front Spoiler

o Talbot Style Mirror Painted 1974 BMW Anthracite

o Rolled Fenders

o Kia Sportage Door Gaskets

o Custom Hatch/Hood Gaskets

o New Windshield Gasket

o OEM New Pillar Emblems

o ZCCJDM Towhooks

· Interior

o Nardi Wood/Black Spokes Steering Wheel

o Momo Hub

o Custom Horn Button w/Datsun Logo

o Speedhut Tachometer

o 280z voltage meter

o S2000 Start Button

o New Transmission Tunnel Vinyl

o New Luggage Riser Vinyl

o New Shock tower Vinyl

o OEM New Door Panels

o OEM New Door Hardware

o OEM New Window Crank/Lock Pulls/Door Handle Bezels/Door Grip

o OEM New Map Light

o OEM New Shift Knob

o OEM New Shift boot

o OEM New E-brake boot

o OEM New Outer Scuff Plates

o OEM New Inner Scuff Plates

o OEM New Hood Release Cable

o OEM New Inner Shift Boot

o Center Console Arm Rest w/Cup Holders

o New Carpet

o MSA Armrests

o MSA Rear Luggage Riser Topper

o MSA Custom “Z” Embroidered Carpet

o ALL New Plastic Interior Panels

o MSA Dash Cover

o Custom ABS Plastic Kick Panels w/speaker pods

o Custom console panel

o Heater Removed

o Battery relocated behind passenger seat

o Speedway USA battery mount

o New Floorpans

o Refurbished cowl panel

o Refurbished Dog Legs

o Refurbished Rear View Mirror

o New Heat Insulation

o New Acoustic Insulation

· Engine

o Early 240z E31 Head

§ Isky Stage 2 Cameshaft

§ Rebello Racing Port & Polish

§ Larger Exhaust Valves

§ Schneider Valve Springs

§ Fuel Pump Blockoff Plate

§ Refurbished Rocker Arms

§ NISMO Lash Pads

§ Rebuilt by Rebello Racing

o L28 F54 Flattop Block

§ 280zx Turbo Oil Pump

§ ARP Head Studs

§ OEM Timing Chain Kit

§ Rebuilt OEM Water Pump

§ FelPro Headgasket

§ L24 2Row Crank Dampener

§ Rebuilt by Rebello Racing

o Dyno Tuned by Rebello Racing

o Heater bypass elimination

o Aliminum Radiator

· Exhaust

o HKS Header

o 2.5” Crush Bent

o Magnaflow mid-muffler

o Gibson Rear Muffler

Visit to Rebello

2012-02-25T09:58:00.002-08:00

I forgot to mention it previously,

But,

I dropped my E31 head off @ Rebello Racing about a month ago

After some discussion w/Dave (Rebello) about why my intake ports were "dirty",

I decided to go ahead and get the whole engine rebuilt

So I went back to the shop a month later to drop off the block

Good thing I live nearby

What you see upon arrival:

Walking up to the shop, the engine dynos caught my eye

The goal for this particular engine was 500HP

They were about 10HP away from their goal:

I walked in and Dave promptly showed me the progress on my head:

Lookin Good

Then he proceeded to show me his flowbench

He offered an easy explanation of how it works

Pretty cool stuff:

Random shot of some L-series headers hanging on the wall:

Anyways,

The block ready to be rebuilt:

All the block is getting is new rings/bearings
Everything else is essentially brand new
Also being assembled and dyno-tuned
Coolest part is I get to be present when they dyno tune it
Sweet!

Vacancy

2012-02-22T19:18:00.000-08:00

Pulled Engine on Monday

Taking to Rebello on Friday

It's in the details

2012-01-20T14:38:00.000-08:00

Step 1: Grab Beer of choice

Step 2: Grab rare "Elephant Oil cap"

I'd like to take this moment and dispel the rumor that this cap was solely created in commemoration of Datsun's South African Safari win in 1969.

The elephant is actually representative of Nissan's official oil brand at the time, "Elephant."

The Japanese reads, "please pour elephant oil"

The brand itself was named in commemoration of Datsun's South African Safari win in 1969, but not the cap.

Step 3: Clean with Acetone, Alcohol, Mineral Spirits, whatever

Step4: Grab paint pen and start painting

Step 5: Pen ran out of ink. I'll finish it later.

Wounded beast

2012-01-15T17:17:00.000-08:00

I'd Been Burning Some Oil
Found Oil on the #2 Plug
Compression was Good but not Consistent
I Never matched Valves to Valve Seats + Leaking Valve Seals=The Teardown Begins

Taking Head to Rebello Racing for Some Larger Valves
New Valves, Seals, Seats
&
Slight Port Job

Dilemma

2012-01-07T10:56:00.000-08:00

Way too much $$$:

Priced reasonably:

What I really want:

ToDo

2011-12-20T16:18:00.000-08:00

I’ve pretty much had an entire summer/fall to drive the Z since “finishing” it. With that I’ve been making a list of things that need to be fixed/changed. It may look like a lot, but in reality I would think this is pretty standard after rebuilding a car.

Here they are:

Action: Clutch slips at high RPMs (above 5000)

Cause: Glazed clutch, leaking rear main seal, or slightly engaged pressure plate.

Fix: New clutch, replace seal, or find different length clutch collar

Action: Smokes like a chimney and getting worse.

Cause: Oily smoke so its gotta be the valve stem seals.

Fix: New seals, might as well port head while I’m at it.

Action: Slight tire rubbing in rear

Cause: Tires are too badass

Fix. Rolled fenders but still no positive result. Get out cut off wheel/grinder.

Action: Passenger seat too far forward in interior compartment

Cause: Battery relocation to behind passenger seat prevents rearward movement.

Fix: Get a smaller/shorter battery to allow rearward seat movement.

Action: Speedo don’t work

Cause: Speedo gear in trans installed incorrectly

Fix. Git R Done

Action: Car does not return to zero after left turns

Cause: Noticed recently that front wheels are different offsets.

Minimal enough offset not to notice, but large enough offset to adversely affect handling.

Fix: Get out matching spares and pair them up correctly.

Action: Shock tower covers look like shit

Cause: Product quality sucks & I suck

Fix: Professional install?

Action: Noisy fuel pump

Cause: No idea

Fix: Different brand pump

Any suggestions/tips/advice???

Nomination

2011-12-20T09:35:00.000-08:00

Quite an honor. Check it out!

http://speedhunters.com/archive/2011/12/19/speedhunters-awards-2011-gt-gt-reader-car-of-the-year-wip.aspx

Back when I was ridin dirty.

Short Story

2011-12-14T18:57:00.000-08:00

New Tires

2011-09-27T18:46:00.000-07:00

Got some new Tires

Toyo R888

205/55/14 & 225/50/14

The old tires were bad.

The rears were hard and cracking

I was losing traction when the cam kicked in around 4.5k RPM

The fronts were hard and had uneven wear leading to vibration

The new rears are smaller in diameter than the old tires

Throws off the look a bit

I'll have to adjust the suspension

Tire needs to fill the fender and camber slightly more positive now that I'm no longer rubbing

Journey to JCCS - 3

2011-09-26T20:41:00.000-07:00

My pics from the show

Journey to JCCS - 2

2011-09-25T17:41:00.000-07:00

Journey to JCCS - Lodi to Camarillo

2011-09-24T16:17:00.000-07:00

Picked up the U-Haul Trailer @ 7:30AM

Got on the road by 9:00AM

At a rest stop

On the road. Captured by www.zcarblog.com

Unloading in Camarillo at the sis & bro in-laws

Ass first

Final resting place

JCCS 2011 Roadtrip

2011-09-13T08:04:00.000-07:00

Had quite the adventure down to Long beach for JCCS 2011.

I'll have a few updates about the trip upcoming.

Speedhunters.com yay!

FLASHBACK ATTACK

2011-09-08T14:49:00.001-07:00

My old website:

http://www.inzane240.com/

Ghetto Fab

2011-09-07T19:21:00.000-07:00

In an effort to get my car running I ghetto fabbed this:

Any idea what it is?

It's the engine water inlet off of a 240z

With a giant bolt shoved down the heater core water inlet

Held together with JB Weld, and JB Putty

It actually worked out OK, but it's not the prettiest

I'll be replacing it with this:

Available on 79-83 280zxs (and possibly other same year L series)

The heater core inlet is threaded on this piece
whereas on earlier models it was cast as one piece

So I threaded it out and popped in a 1/2"NPT plug

Cool!

Side by side

Before:

Removed:

Apply trusty grey RTV:

After:

Home Grown

2011-09-02T16:32:00.000-07:00

Got my Anniversary present from my wife.

A Techno Toy Tuning front strut bar

Cool!

I've had some positive dealings with T3 in the past, but this one was not so pleasant.

Whatever
At least it showed up

Wasn't satisfied with the blue color

(which doesn't match the pics/description on their website. It's a royal blue)

I busted out the trusty paint gun and versatile coat hanger

Little bit (GIANT) of a run

Oops

Tight and Crisp

2011-08-26T11:39:00.000-07:00

Most of my major modifications are done

A lot of my posts from now on will be little shit

The internal throttle springs on DCOEs suck

Especially when they are worn out

WEBER knows this

I knows this

YOU KNOWs THIS MANg

That's why they made this little contraption:

Expensive for what it is.

But thats WEBER for you

I put it on the carb at the end of the linkage

I figure it would have the toughest time returning to idle

Before:

After:

Closer look to see how it actually works:

The Spring seems a little weak, but it does the job

You dont want it too tight otherwise throttle control will suck!

Clutch Slave

2011-08-16T07:07:00.000-07:00

So I have been having problems with the clutch disengaging

I had a new clutch slave when I reassembled the engine, but I accidentally blew the seal

Oops

I had to use the old slave pictured below

As you can see it's the newer type cylinder with the older type pushrod

70-72 slaves had an adjustable push rod. They also had an eyelet for the clutch fork return spring

72-83 had a self adjusting pushrod and no need for a return spring, hence no eyelet

The above has no eyelet, but the adjustable pushrod

At some point the original slave was replaced, but with the wrong type

With all that said,

I'm not sure if there is a mechanical difference between the two, but it wasnt getting the job done

The cylinder inside the slave wasn't traveling far enough to fully engage the clutch

So I ordered and installed the proper part

I went against my "stay true to the original" morals and bought a Borg-Warner unit

It was significantly cheaper than an OEM unit

I've had some luck with them in the past

A lot of their Z parts are OEM units in Borg-Warner packaging, the slave however was not

I've got a friend coming over to help me bleed it on Wed

I did a gravity bleed, but I don't trust it

2011-08-15T05:21:00.000-07:00

Back

2011-08-13T11:53:00.000-07:00

Got the car back from the Body Shop for wetsanding.

Dude did a shitty job. Obviously.

Maybe I'm just super critical.

So out came my buffer and the polishes.

Here's where I'm at.

Roof:

Side shot:

MSA 2004

2011-08-07T09:16:00.000-07:00

MSA 2003

2011-08-01T18:28:00.000-07:00

Pics from the 2003 Motosport Auto Show

The KING of Z shows

Body Shoppin

2011-07-22T17:44:00.000-07:00

Took the Z back to the Body Shop

It was Never Wetsanded

The Guy Said He Would DO IT When I Put the Car Back Together

I Think He Thought I'd Never GET IT DONE

And I'm Sure HE Thought He'd Never Have To See Me Again

Wrong

He'll Probably Take His Sweet Time

As I'm No Longer a Paying Customer

Its Been One Week Already Since He's Had the Car

It's Not Done

Oldie (2003???)

Headache.

2011-07-12T18:14:00.000-07:00

I need an alignment. Dont worry about the rear. Just do the front. The camber is not adjustable on the front.

OK got it.

15min later...

Dude your camber in the rear is way offff.

Ya I know, don't worry about it. Just do the front.

But it's totally going to destroy your tires.

Ya I know, don't worry about it. Just do the front.

It's like way out of spec.

Don't worry about it. Just do the front.

Okkkkkkkkk.

What about these adjustable rods here? Do you have any specs for them.

No, but use your experience and use your best judgement.

Ok. By the way the camber in the front is non-adjustable...

Needless to say by looking at the spreadsheet I am pretty disappointed with the results. Sad thing is they are one of the only games in town with a pit. I need to go to a place with a pit because my car wont fit on anyone's ramp. I can't blame the guy too much. He is used to doing cookie cutter shit.

JCCS 2011

2011-07-07T16:06:00.000-07:00

I Registered For JCCS

Anyone Else Going?

America

2011-07-04T18:44:00.001-07:00

Happy 4th of July

Only in America

Keep it Real

2011-06-30T21:31:00.000-07:00

Palomares Rd

2011-06-08T07:46:00.000-07:00

This is one of my favorite roads to drive.

I discovered it while on the job.

Located in the East Bay, it's a pretty rare find.

Hardly any traffic. Smooth paving. Very Scenic.

Its a uphill/downhill road coming from either direction.

The peak is right in the middle of the road's length.

Sadly enough I've never driven it in the Z.

One day.

Ratsun BBQ and Swap Meet - Tracy, CA

2011-05-22T08:51:00.000-07:00

Part 1 of 3

2011-05-11T14:10:00.000-07:00

Here’s a quick history about my build.

My grandfather purchased a used 1972 240z in 1973. In its long life with my grandfather it was daily driven, stolen, returned, vandalized, passed down to my uncle, mom, and finally parked in my grandfathers driveway where it sat for about 10 to 15 years slowly rusting away.

When I turned 17 in 2000 I rediscovered the car. It was a disaster. Covered in dirt, birch leaves, spider webs, etc, my goal was to make it drivable. The only thing I knew about cars at this point in my life was what I had learned on the original Gran Turismo. I was a novice. My mechanical skills were non-existent. Regardless, I was determined to make it drivable. Luckily for me all it really needed was a good wash and a tune-up. Soon enough I was driving around the block, granted with lots of backfiring. The best part was being able to see the asphalt beneath my feet through the holes in the floorboard. Such a new and exciting experience…

Eventually, I persuaded my grandparents to give me the car as a high school graduation gift. After all, I had done a lot of work to it during my junior and senior years of high school. A lot of the modifications were misguided, but I was learning. Neon lights, Honda wheels, and a grapefruit launcher out the back were a few of my mistakes…

I drove the car during the summers when I returned home from school. Each summer the car got more and more aggressive, performing various upgrades/modifications as I could afford them. Despite this, like most of us, I had grand visions of what the car could be. In its current state, it was far from that. After graduating from college, the car got put on the back burner as funds were tight and the reality of the world forced me to find a job. So the car sat in storage for 5 years. A shame I know.

I got laid off on Jan 1, 2010. With a heavy heart, lots of time, and a pitiful severance, I set out to keep myself occupied. This is when I decided to get serious about the Z. It would need a lot of work, but I had a lot of time. Most importantly, my grandparents deserved to see their gift appreciated.

!

2011-05-07T15:27:00.000-07:00

Back in the Day

2011-05-02T15:46:00.001-07:00

Initial Z

2011-04-29T05:34:00.000-07:00

I've Been a Little Hesitant to Post This

Just Because It's So Damn Corny

But It'll Give You an Idea

Of What the Car Was Like Before

We Made This In 2003

We Thought We Were Hot Shit

Because Nobody Was Making Videos Back Then

NOS

2011-04-28T15:49:00.000-07:00

Ive Said This Before

It's Amazing What you Can Find

How Much You Can Save

If You Have the Part Number

A Motivated Dealer

New Old Stock vs New

New Window Roller

Check Out: nissanparts.cc

They Get it Right Most of the Time

Which is a Rarity When Ordering Parts

Mount Up

2011-04-24T19:13:00.000-07:00

Mirror Mounted

Painted to Match

The Little Things

2011-04-14T18:45:00.001-07:00

So JDM ;)

2011-04-13T19:27:00.000-07:00

Sorry

I had to get the floormats

Work Continues

2011-04-08T10:32:00.000-07:00

1980

2011-04-07T16:10:00.000-07:00

Sound/Weather Proofing

2011-04-07T09:24:00.000-07:00

Got a roll of Sound insulation:

Acoustical Polyurethane Foam Absorber, Adhesive Back, Skinned, 1/2" Thick, 54" W

Mccaster-Carr part# 5692T61

Bought some 3M Adhesive spray

Cheap insurance

Wanted to make sure the foam stuck

Result:

You can also see the door gasket

It's from a Kia Sportage. 2003.

An excellent alternative to $$$ stock door gaskets

Crappy fitting $$$ Aftermarket door gaskets

_____________________________________________________

Needed an alternative to the gaskets for the hatch

I have the aftermarket versions, but don't like the idea of using silicone

Here's what I used:

Edge-Grip Rubber Seal, Bulb Opposite Grabber, 1/8" Edge, 5/8" Bulb W

Part #1120A231

Adhesive Back Foam Rubber Bulb Seal, 1/2" Overall Width, 1/2" Overall Height, 1/4" ID, 10' L

Part# 93085K13

Result:

It may be a little overkill, but the hatch is def sealed.

The hatch is a little hard to close. A little too hard.

I may just need some time to break in.

Time will tell.

112 Lime Yellow

2011-04-04T19:57:00.000-07:00

Grandma Found More...

2011-03-30T20:51:00.000-07:00

...Of my Uncle's Z

Family History

2011-03-28T10:30:00.000-07:00

I asked my Grandma if she had any old pictures of my Z.

My Grandpa bought the car in 1973 and officially put it in my name in 2002.

Throughout their lives, they ended up purchasing a total of 4 Zs.

3 240Zs and 1 280Z.

One was given to my Uncle for his wedding. One my mom totaled. One was sold.

Mine was the only one left, but it sat for a couple decades before I could get to it.

This is what she found:

I have my doubts that this is the same Z.

I know my car intimately.

Lots of clues lead me to believe this was my uncles 240z.

Wheels, Stripes, Trim, Color (close), Muffler, Etc.

Pretty cool nonetheless.

Immaculate

2011-03-22T18:56:00.000-07:00

All Original

2011-03-13T12:40:00.000-07:00

Thought my brakes were locking up

Turns out my rear disk conversion was interfering with the 14" wheels

Hence no movement

Out came the grinder with the flapper wheel

Ground down the caliper to clear

Looks good

WRONG

Wheel was now interfering with the brake hose bolt

Ground that down

Good to go

Pics Later

DSALNI

2011-03-08T05:38:00.000-08:00

Got me some AUTHENTIC Dsalni Drawn Art

I snuck it in among the wife's territory

Thanks dude

Check out the DSALNI DRAWN webstore/blog here:

http://dsalni.wordpress.com/

Great content

2011-03-07T05:22:00.000-08:00

Decided not to sell my Mercury.

It's too badass.

Finally got some brass shifter bushings

Now just need to find some time

This will be my 8th straight 13.5 hour day.

Ughhhhhhh!

Making Room

2011-02-21T11:22:00.001-08:00

Selling my half finished project:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2226637541.html

OG

2011-02-20T14:24:00.000-08:00

These are the wheels I plan on using most of the time

The others set is a little more extreme
These wheels are more aligned with my original vision

I think I like these better anyways

Still waiting on spacers

And I have a leak in my brakes

They are completely locked up

SLOW

2011-02-16T10:28:00.000-08:00

Work on the Z is slow.

I've been having hydraulic problems.

I think I sorted out the clutch, but the brakes still need a lot of attention.

I may turn to a "professional"

Especially since I've been working a lot.

11 hour days, 6 days a week, 3hours r/t from my house.

WOW

2011-02-03T13:50:00.001-08:00

Via justacargeek.com/

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/2186639157.html

2011-01-31T15:53:00.000-08:00

Satisfaction

2011-01-26T17:29:00.000-08:00

Fresh from the camera.

TIPs

2011-01-25T19:05:00.000-08:00

Finally tacked on the tips.

Stacked Trumpets.

And the front needs spacers.

LIKE THE BLOG ON FACEBOOK------>

2011-01-24T18:38:00.000-08:00

It's neat.

Alright...

2011-01-24T18:33:00.000-08:00

So here is a pic of the final product, minus the brake conversion:

You can spy the Fairlady 2+2 R180.

It comes in the 4.11 ratio.

Also shown are the ARP studs. Had to replace the stockers. Way too short.

A Clear shot of the coilovers:

I added 10" QA1 Springs.

225# in the rear

Included springs were some crazy rate and 8".

Even lower than the last post:

Cool.

At the request of my two favorite fans here are the wheel specs:

Front:

15x7.5 Epsilons/Southern Ways

10mm offset

195/55/15

Rear:

15x9.5 Epsilons/Southern Ways

0 offset

225/50/15

On the Ground

2011-01-23T16:26:00.000-08:00

Still need to tweak, but I'm stoked.

Better late than never

2011-01-14T06:56:00.000-08:00

Oh ya I forgot to tell you.

Took the rear suspension out.

Trying to get it out with the exhaust in made it a bitch.

If the exhaust wasnt there it would have been pretty easy.

Strut/Spring/Control Arm/Drum Brakes:

Stock R180:

I think 3.34 ratio???

You can see what I did to the strute tube.
I got rid of that shit.
Just like the front, I pressed on an adapter.
The adapter will allow me to use certain brands of s13 coilover

Looking down the barrel of the tube:

Where the Tube meets the hub. Weld here:

Welding:

Moved on to the camber plates:

My 120V welder kept tripping the breaker in the garage.

You can see where I was in the zone and then the breaker tripped.

Then the wife got home from work so no more play time.

REFRESHING

2011-01-13T10:44:00.001-08:00

2011-01-12T16:28:00.001-08:00

Rear Camber Plates

2011-01-11T19:08:00.000-08:00

I should have done this before I had the car painted.

But that would be the logical thing to do.

Tools of the trade:

Grinder w/cutoff wheel & Sawzill

The Result:

A gapping hole.

Now test fit:

Tomorrow Welding.

Stay Tuned

WORDS TO BUILD BY

2011-01-11T08:03:00.000-08:00

You can have your choice of 2 but RARELY all 3.

Cheap+Reliable = Not Fast

Fast+Cheap = Not Reliable

Fast+Reliable = Not Cheap

I took out my entire rear drivetrain/suspension.

Will have pics soon.

So Scared

2011-01-06T12:51:00.000-08:00

So when Jay @ JDMego deleted all the entries from his blog I almost lost it.

I went straight over to his online store and started buyin up goodies.

I thought they were gonna be gone forever.

When the order came, to my surprise he threw some extra goodies in.

Then come to find out, he's back on the net.

Check out his blog: JDMego

Some New Parts

2011-01-05T04:41:00.000-08:00

I went with this biscuit camber plate cause I didn't want to cut up my front towers.

This shit (and other shit like it) is actually cheap if you know the Nissan part#.

You just gotta work for it.

From MSA. The Zparts monopoly.

It's a generic mirror, but MSA had the best price

Swap meet score.

Carbon fiber. Not sure if I'm going to run these...

Rust-Proofing & Insulation

2011-01-04T08:44:00.000-08:00

For the new followers out there check out the entries from Feb and March

I had to replace the floors due to massive rust.

When I was done, this was the result:

I used spray on bedliner to protect the new sheetmetal after priming it.

This stuff:

It looked good at first, but deteriorated quickly.

I do not recommend it.

After a large amount of research I decided on this:

Chassis Saver

Here's an advertisement:

You can either use a spray gun or a brush to apply the coating.

I used a brush because I'm lazy and I didn't want overspray all over my paint.

Anyways here is what it looks like wet:

When it dries (takes at keast 24hrs) it will be satin black.

Now that that's done it's time to put in some insulation.

This is going to be a car that I want to enjoy on the street, not some crazy track/autocross car.

With that said, for me to be able to enjoy it, I need to be able to at least hear myself think.

However, squeaks & rattles in a car like this are assumed.

My goal is to minimize those things.

Do your research and you'll find out that Peel&Seal is the same shit as the original Dynamat.

(Peel&Seal is available in the roofing section @ the hardware store)

You can go crazy and get the super $$$ stuff, but like I said, I just want to hear myself think.

If that's you goal too, do yourself a favor and save some money.

In the package:

Your gonna need a heat gun, some kind of roller, and a pair of scissors.

A wallpaper roller works well.

I stole the one below from a stack of crap @ the parents house.

There are 2 secrets to making this stuff last.

#1:Making sure the mounting surface is clean.

#2:Heating up the Peal&Seal.

Apply heat via the heat gun to the mounting surface to warm it up.

Don't let it get too hot, just warm.

Do the same to the Peal&Seal. Again not too hot.

Apply the same way you would a piece of tape pushing the Peal&Seal into crevices as you go along.

Once you have applied it heat it up again. Again not too hot, just so that its warm to the touch.

Now use the roller to firmly bond it to the mating surface.

These are the results

Sound insulation is mucho improvo.

For spots with extra resonance, layer the material until you are satisfied.

Keep it Old School

2011-01-01T15:57:00.000-08:00

This is a bit strange.

I'm conflicted

I should be happy the aftermarket is starting to look at the older Japanese imports.

And I'm all for technology upgrades.

Not to mention low, aggressive cars.

But I'm seriously irked by the TE37V. Something about it just pisses me off.

Perhaps it's what it represents. The recent popularization of the "old school."

I just need to get over it and embrace all the cool new people/products attracted to this scene

Selling some wheels. - SOLD!

2010-12-30T07:01:00.001-08:00

Buy them!

http://sacramento.craigslist.org/pts/2135772640.html

INSPIRATION V3.455

2010-12-29T05:30:00.000-08:00

STALEMATE

2010-12-28T18:16:00.000-08:00

I'm at a stalemate right now due to many reasons.

As it sits in the dark:

Would be a neat picture if the stoopid shop vac wasn't in the way. Oh well.

Nostalgia

2010-12-21T07:45:00.000-08:00

Circa 2001

Merry Christmas.

2010-12-21T07:37:00.000-08:00

Just a small update. No Pics.

I finally finished the outside of the car.

Bumpers mounted. Rear valance on. Wheels mounted.

Lots of other small things.

I've moved on to the interior.

First thing was to put on a coat of Chassis Saver.

Then I installed some sound deadening/heat insulation.

I got a COMPLETE vinyl interior kit from my wife for my birthday. That'll be the next task.

I'm hoping to get new interior plastics for Christmas from the same awesome wife.

I still need to install the rear coilovers and roll the fenders before the car is presentable,

As a result, don't expect a pic of the full car anytime soon.

Here is a rant:

Dont ever pay someone their full asking price until ALL work is done.

Even if the dude seems trustworthy.

Even if the guy is a friend.

DONT PAY UNTIL EVERYTHING IS DONE.

It took my painter 6 months AFTER he painted my car to get me my bumpers.

WHY?

Because I already paid him.

He had the money already so whats the incentive?

NONE.

Easy

2010-12-05T16:27:00.000-08:00

Step 1:

Make a "booth"

Step 2:

Grab yo shit. Make sure its clean (sandblasting/sandpaper & thinner)

Step 3:

Prime & re-sand & re-clean

Step 4:

Mix paint & shoot

I used a single stage urethane enamel for ease of application & durability

Step5:

Let dry for at least 24HR

Step 6:

Sit back & Enjoy

2010-11-28T17:28:00.000-08:00

ON JACKSTANDS

2010-11-25T11:22:00.000-08:00

I took the wheels in to have them blasted.

Came out good.

However, I think the rear wheels are not authentic.

Some kind of copy as the logo is missing from the face of the wheel.

Don't know why I never noticed.

I got screwed.

They came of a hakosuka so they could be super old...before they started "branding" them.

Who knows...

Too many tires.
And a random pillow???

AN BANJO FITTINGS

2010-11-17T07:56:00.000-08:00

For those of you with Trip Webs here is a cheap AN Banjo Fitting:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-640913/
Russel Part#640913

Although designed for a Civic fuel rail, it works perfectly on my DCOEs.

A much cheaper alternative to those banjos marketed to specifically fit DCOEs ($30).

Probably the same shit.

You could also just run a striaght fitting out the side or top(where the filter is), but I like the way Banjos look.

Before & After

2010-11-12T15:00:00.000-08:00

I'm sick, but still managed to get the additional muffler installed

Before & After

I still don't like the sound.
I'm pretty sure it has to do with the shitty Gibson muffler.
But the Gibson has the look I want so Imma keep it.
I'll learn to like it.

Its all in the details

2010-11-02T07:43:00.000-07:00

Got bored so I decided to restore an eBay score.

No I'm not from Hawaii like kyushakai, but I love the idea/lifestyle.